Hey there everyone, i trust you all have sufficient hangovers and battle scars from partying , i fell in a cactus .
So a few days ago we all awoke fairly early and managed to flag down an old van to take us north to a break called Tamree, a break renowned for its consistancy and huge throaty barrels.
Piling boats on the roof and one on top of a fridge in the back and then all squeezing in alongside we headed North along the coast. On our way we swiftly realised that every break we passed was going off and in a big way. Finally arriving on the cliff top to our horror the waves were huge closing out and definitely pumping the sand bar, throwing all manor of hell in to our minds. Gingerly heading to the shallows all a little apprehensive we luckily got out back between a set. Once out i felt small. No....... tiny!!! Taking off on a few of the smaller sets we began to find our feet. Piers turned to us and said "look there is a hill in the sea, and its heading for us", we looked as an enormous set headed towards us. Danny took one look and started windmilling out back as fast as possible whilst Alan and i shook momentarily before wooping and preparing to get in to the line up. Once upon us it towered way over, i felt like a speck on the wave, i felt my boat begin to plane and i set my edge at a super steep angle of attack knowing well that if i didnt make the drop i was toast. Once far enough down the wave i took a moment to admire the huge banking face of water that i was riding before getting down to hucking the mother of all calli roles completely clean neither boat, body or paddles graced the water because i was flying at least 6 feet above it. A clean landing and still enough time to get back out on the face and escape the ever closing wall of crashing pipe behind me .
The rest of the day was spent riding waves of similar preportion. On our way home we picked up a few surfers who had broken down. Riding home we watched the sun setting over the point and in to the sea. A vast sky of deep reds and purples welcomed us home with the few minutes of dusk left we slung our boats on the balcony and headed to the pizza place on the beach where we spent the evening playing cards and sipping louessa tea with Moroccans.
With almost three weeks left in Africa and my tan coming on strong i wish you all good health and all that doo darrr